A dear friend, Ed Simmons visited me recently. No. Not in the flesh. Ed passed away a little over two years ago on September 22, 2022. Never the less, there have been a series of events that I’ve experienced recently that gives me a feeling his spirit is very much alive. As friends for over a 30 year period, our bond principally developed by our mutual love for the medium of photography and the memories good pictures can provide us. Ed and I shared many of those photographic memories in conversations we had about each others work and our dedication to making weekly phone calls to keep in touch. Although Ed lived the remaining 15 years or so of his life in Los Angelos, we never lost our commitment to a lasting friendship.
Dunes. 2008. Photo: Ed Simmons
The first thing that happened recently that made me feel his spirit was very much alive, was when I visited a mutual friend of ours that was seeking my advice about selling some old photography equipment she was know longer using. I suggested that I should visit her in person so that I could access the condition of the equipment. When I arrived and after looking at the equipment, she opened a box that contained several photographs of which ran a chill up and down my spine. The first three on top of the pile were photographs that Ed Simmons produced while he was spending time photographing the American West during photography workshops in 2007 and 2008. My friend didn’t know Ed very well, although they were part of a group of artists who regularly met on South street for coffee during that time period. She wasn’t particularly attached to the photographs that wound up in her possession through a mutual friend, so she offered them to me as a gift. Ed had to have been smiling down on us a that moment knowing how much I cherished our friendship and his legacy. In an instant I became the proud owner of three Ed Simmons landscapes. What a pleasant surprise that was.
Dellenback Dunes, Oregon. Photo: Ed Simmons
So I brought them home and have had them on display in my studio just so that I can continue to reflect on the life of a dear friend. And just yesterday while I was browsing LinkedIn there was an automated message from Ed congratulating me on a work anniversary. As I looked at the picture closer, I could see that he was wearing one of my t-shirts! The memories of a lifelong friendship continues.
TW: When did you first realize you wanted to pursue fashion design?
KV: I never really pursued Fashion Design actually I had a manufacturer, I didn’t start sewing actually until my little sister Dorian bought me a sewing machine and I took a six week sewing class. I think I was always a designer. I always believed you can go to school to learn how to sew. Being a designer is so much more so I don’t know that I pursed being a fashion designer. I really didn’t know what that was I didn’t know that was a role. I always loved clothes I work selling clothes and shoes for 15 years before I launched my collection. Actually it was a customer who told me I was a Designer. I just didn’t know it I was doing styling at the time for my customers but a that time it wasn’t called styling it was just putting together a look head to toe but once I heard the word designer, I just wanted to wear something with my name on it. I didn’t start sewing until much later in my career when my always supportive sister Dorian bought me the sewing machine and said you will figure it out. She constantly pushes me to be better in life overall so I found a 6 week class and told my instructor I just wanted to learn how to sew a straight line. It was a great turn by making my own scarves we slashed labor cost. I still hand sew pieces that need couture touches but we have a manufacturer down the street so we good.
TW: What made making scarves your focus?
KW: Well I’ve always loved scarves so we started doing them just for personal use and everyone start asking how they could get one so we did a small collection actually the first collection was made out of upholstery fabric as time went on the scarf collection was outpacing the mens and women’s collection sales so we decided to make them the focus going forward.
TW: What makes the KVaughn brand unique?
KV: I think our whole approach to design. I think it’s what we don’t do that makes us unique we don’t do more than 3 of a kind. We select high quality fabrics and we don’t chase trends. Most of our interactions with our clients is one on one so there is a personal touch provided to each customer. Our scarves take on the personality of the wearer.
TW: How do you go about selecting fabric for each season?
KV: Good Question. I’m not sure there’s a good answer because it’s different inspiration each season the fabrics: wool, cashmere, mohair for winter, linen and silk for summer. It’s more than just the fabrics I pick. I tap into the mood of the season. Is it about the length short or long wide or narrow? I like to think about the man or woman – how would they want to wear it and then the fabric has a language all its own.
TW: What are KVaughn goals for 2024?
KV: Goals 2024? Well that’s a good one. I started my collection in March of 1994, so I’ve been blessed with almost 30 years in Design and I gave myself 6 months, so I’m always concerned about overstaying my welcome. I will always design, that’s in my DNA but what that looks like I really can’t say. I’m really enjoying The Creative Director position with Tony Ward Studio, and I’ve been getting offers to collaborate. As far as K.VAUGHN SCARVES I always ask myself do we have anything to say Fashion wise are your designs still relevant? Is there a market for my work I always reevaluate at the end of the year. I’ll keep you posted.
TW: Who were your earliest fashion influences?
KV: I’m reminded of a Biggie song where he was asked the same question.No one influenced me to get into fashion. It was always in me but I do remember me and my Best Friend Kevin Long. I was introduced to him when I was living in Boston and we would always talk style and Fashion I met him in 1986. I didn’t start my own line till 1994, but the talks we had definitely had an influence. He even flew down to help with my first collection after I got into design. You grab a little from everyone it’s like make a cake. Karl Lagerfeld had that uniform that look that was distinctive. Alexander McQueen, his shows were always dramatic. Isaac Mizrahi and the Documentary Unzipped revealed the hectic weeks before a Runway Show. Ralph Lauren who doesn’t sew a lick but has such a vision for Men, Women, and Home . There’s so many influences that have crossed my path. Oh I can’t forget meeting Andre Leon Talley.
TW: How did your upbringing impact your creativity?
KV: Unfortunately words like art and designer were never used in my household. I always was looking to get away and trying to see what was out there in a bigger world. I do remember as a kid I would look at the walls in our home and always thought something was missing. Now I know it was art, so I think my upbringing made me go in another direction. Now my place is filled with art on every wall.
TW: What is a typical KVaughn design day like?
KV: Well since I sell life insurance during the day my design process happens at night around 11pm. I’ll get in my studio lay out whatever fabrics I’m working with and turn on the Tv, no volume and have my music on blast. Latlely I’ve been working on making new mannequins for display use. It’s all about creating a comfort zone with no limits . Weekend trips mainly to New York to buy fabrics means a visit 20 fabrics stores in one day just to put a collection together and every fabric supplier you have to negotiate fabrics prices. It’s hectic but it’s the best part because I know no matter the reception to a particular collection I put in the work and selected every fabric so a Day in a Life is very interesting and quite fulfilling.
TW: Which current design house do you gain the most inspiration from?
KV: Inspiration houses: Channel particularly The Lagerfeld Era, Hermes For the Scarves, Ralph Lauren for the Scale and reach of the brand.
My book ‘Heaven and Hell on the Road to Reno was just disapproved at the top level of the Virginia Department of Corrections. They said:
“‘Material that contains solicitations for or promotes activities that are in violation of state or federal law including the abuse or sexual exploitation of children or contains nude depictions of children in the context of sexual activity.’ Heaven and Hell on the Road to Reno contains material that abuses and exploits a child. There is no criterion exception for such material.”
Either they didn’t actually read the book, are taking hallucinogenic drugs, or just made up an excuse so they could disapprove the book because I wrote it.
Needless to say, they didn’t cite where this incident of abuse and exploitation of a child appears in the book for a damned good reason; it isn’t in there! Yes, there is sex in the book, perhaps more than some readers would be comfortable with, but it’s all adult sex. I could list dozens of books in our institutional library with similar sex scenes, some that go beyond what I’d be comfortable writing.
There is absolutely nothing even remotely like what they claim that in the book! Period! Full stop! There aren’t even any child characters! I’ve never written anything like their slanderous accusation and never would! I consider child abuse disgusting. Not only are they guilty of serious constitutional violations, they’ve slandered me.
The book they confiscated is a prepublication author’s uncorrected proof. By confiscating it and refusing to return it for false reasons, they’re preventing me from revising, correcting, and publishing it. They’re depriving me of income.
And, perhaps most importantly, they’re violating Article One, Section Twelve, of the Virginia Constitution, which says “any citizen” may “write and publish … on all subjects.”
Of course, they’re also trampling on the First Amendment of the United States Constitution.
At the request of the Warden here, the Virginia Attorney General’s office already told them that I have the right to write and publish. But, they’re simply ignoring the Attorney General’s opinion and interfering with my right to publish, anyway. The Virginia Department of Corrections believes it is above the law.
But to stop them and get my proof book back, I’ll have to sue them. That takes a lot of time and effort.
I’ll keep my readers updated on this sad saga.
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About The Author: Bob Shell is a professional photographer, author, former editor in chief of Shutterbug Magazine and veteran contributor to this blog. He is currently serving a 35 year sentence for involuntary manslaughter for the death of Marion Franklin, one of his former models. He is serving the 15th year of his sentence at Pocahontas State Correctional Facility, Virginia. To read additional articles by Bob Shell, click here: https://tonywardstudio.com/blog/eve-of-an-election/
Thirty years ago in 1993. I embarked on a new body of work that explored our rights in America to freedom of expression. My subjects were from all walks of life, from various races, religious backgrounds and sexual persuasions. This melting pot that stubbornly defines America formed the palette of a series of black and white photographs that defined an era. What was that era? It was the time in which sexual freedom and multiculturalism was on the rise.
Unfortunately, in these times there are certain bigoted elements of our society that continue to attempt to roll back the hands of time. Sadly, Facisim in America is on the rise. Obsessions as a body of work reminds us of what we once were and still are, a free and open society in which each individual American is free to choose and be who they are.
WOMEN YOU NEED TO STOP GETTING YOURSELVES PREGNANT
1. Things got hot and heavy at the end of a date and you wanted to stop and he kept going. That’s your problem.
2. You are now pregnant and the morning sickness is causing you to miss work so you have no money – don’t you bother that good man.
3. You don’t have insurance to see a doctor because you can’t work because you are too sick from low iron and constant vomiting – that man should not have to worry about your problems
4. You need bigger clothes for your growing belly and more food because of the growing baby – you should have thought about that when you grew a uterus
5. The baby needs a crib, clothes, diapers and formula. Strap a vomit bag around your neck and get a second job – don’t you dare bother that man about your problems
6. The delivery will cost thousands of dollars and you need a bigger place to live – you should have thought of that when you were born a woman. Oh well
7.) Baby is born and you need to go back to work but can’t afford child care. Mike Pence says that you need to be more patient and good things will come if you are patient so just keep hope alive.
Men (husbands and spouses) some of you are being quiet about the “freedom of choice” debate.
When I had my heart attack it was unknown what was wrong with me. I was nine months pregnant. My baby was alive but the doctor pumped me full of blood thinners as soon as they realized what was wrong. At that point, a Caesarian section was not an option without killing me however without the medication I would not have survived.
My doctor made the choice.
If this happened today, in some states, I would not be alive right now. Politicians would have made the choice.
Because my MEDICAL professional was able to make the choice my child and I are both alive.
Please don’t let politicians decide what’s best for my body. Please leave it to the medical professionals. One day it might be someone you love.
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Editor’s Note: These pictures are from Tony Ward’s first book Obsessions, published by Editions Stemmle, Zurich Switzerland in 1998. An exhibition of photography by Tony Ward of the Obsessions pictures from the years 1993 – 1998 will be on display at Prism Arts Philadelphia from October 6th – October 27, 2023. For more information, link here: https://www.prismartsphiladelphia.com/events/obsessions-by-tony-ward
